New York Magazine’s annual “Reasons to Love New York” issue includes the serious winemaking going on in Red Hook. The story highlights Mark Snyder, who aims to restore and transform the face of Brooklyn winemaking with the help of some Long Island grapes.

Snyder’s mission is twofold: to address the disconnect between Long Island wine and the New York restaurant industry, and to build something raw and artisanal in a borough whose essential character—and characters—he sees slipping away. “One by one they’re disappearing,” he says. “What will happen to Di Fara once Dom DeMarco’s gone? Or Ronnie, the guy who delivers my seltzer bottles—who’s going to do that?” During a recent barrel tasting, those antique bottles, their familiar shape and siphons harking back to an earlier Brooklyn era, were lined up alongside the crystal stemware, an apt tableau for a newfangled Red Hook winery.